5 dangers of at-home chemical peels

Exfoliation is an incredibly important step in you skin’s health, especially to brighten and regenerate new skin cells. While there are a number of products and treatments to exfoliate your skill, you may be tempted to try an at-home chemical peel. The definition of a chemical peel is to apply a chemical solution to your skin that exfoliates and peels it off (hence, chemical + peel…).

As a licensed professional, I understand the caution and care that go into selecting the ideal chemical peel for my clients. There are countless hours of studying that go into understanding skin physiology, ingredients, and usage. The internet has made information highly accessible, which means it has also made it a home to a lot of misguidance through well-intended blogs, articles, and social media influencers.

Before you decide to try one at home, I caution you to do your research, consult with an expert, understand the dangers and risks of using at-home chemical peels, and perhaps consider other alternatives to meet your skin’s needs.

• # 1: Do you understanding ingredient knowledge?

  There are many different chemical peels to choose from: glycolic, salicylic, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), mandelic, a combination of these with enzymes known as designer peels, and more. These ingredients, while amazing, can have damaging effects on the skin when clients are unsure of their skin type, the strength level of the peel, and how each acid will affect their skin.

  One of the most time consuming things we estheticians do is study ingredients. Outside of time spent understanding the function of the skin, we spend the most time reviewing how certain ingredients work with our skin physiology. Working with a dependable expert, like a licensed esthetician can help you avoid any devastating impact and work with you to get the results you are looking for.

• # 2: Do you know the usage guidelines?

  How many layers of a TCA should be applied? That depends on the individual, their current skin condition, skin type, home care routine, and lifestyle, just to name a few! There is much to consider when choosing chemical exfoliation and it’s easy to become overwhelmed.

  The above factors will have an effect on how many layers of the peel is applied, how long it will be left on the skin, whether it needs to be neutralized, and what home products are used to prep the skin in advance. Without the proper understanding of how to use the products and how long to leave it on the skin, it is possible to burn, scar, and discolor the skin.

  This doesn’t begin to touch upon the Fitzpatrick scale and the role pigment plays in advanced exfoliation techniques, so keep reading!

• # 3: Did you know that discoloration can come from over exfoliation?

  The Fitzpatrick scale is a numerical scale that measures the amount of melanin in the skin after exposure to the sun and how skin reacts to ultraviolet light, or sun exposure. Whether clients are a Fitzpatrick 1-6 or somewhere in between, pigmentation is a possible risk when performing at home chemical peels.

  Melanocytes, which produce pigment, release pigment as a protective mechanism and response to trauma. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is common in darker skin tones as a response to trauma, whether its source is a breakout or over-exfoliation.

  As professionals, we know what clients need prior to deep exfoliation and understand the importance of proper home care routines post chemical peel, like what to use or not to use so the skin heals as planned and optimal results are produced.

• # 4: Did you know that increased sensitivity and barrier damage are necessary?

  Barrier damage is a necessity for deep and effective, advanced exfoliation. Professionals are able to support their clients in reducing the inflammation, sensitivity, dryness, and increase barrier resurgence through a proper skin care regimen. Without the knowledge of what peel to select, what products to use before and after, and proper usage instructions, the risk of increased and sustained sensitivity skyrockets.

  Not only is skin sensitivity uncomfortable to clients experiencing it, but the lack of skin barrier and how to care for it can lead to complications, like increased breakouts, dryness, dermatitis, and sensitized skin. Treating these can be time consuming and expensive once the damage has been done.

• # 5: Do you know the proper after care?

  Proper aftercare is imperative in caring for skin post chemical peel. While most clients understand that the sun is to be avoided after exfoliating, there are those that are unsure of what that means exactly. It isn’t just wearing sunscreen, it could mean a reduction of time in the sun, wearing a hat and or sunglasses, not exercising, and no indoor tanning, all of which are not usually mentioned on the back of a chemical peel purchased online.

  Estheticians are also able to advise their clients on which products to save and use after a few days of letting their skin heal. There is the possibility that if clients continue their regular skin routine once they apply an at home peel, further exfoliation and use of active ingredients can lead to additional complications - increased irritation, redness, over exfoliation, breakouts, and hyperpigmentation.

When it comes to chemical peels, I always encourage clients to search for a trusted professional that will ensure optimal results. An esthetician’s professional experience, ingredient expertise, and home care recommendations are essential in the healing process of advanced exfoliation.